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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.